Troll’s Staircase and on to Trondheim

Day 6 Monday 16th July 18

Hjelle to Alesund 173 miles

Slept well and woke up to the most beautiful morning. Sunny, warm ,still clear water on the lake and snow glistening on the mountain tops.. what a great place to live .. in summer!

Instead of main road I took what looked like an interesting, very twisty route through the most amazing valley between the mountains that must have been created by a glacier millions of years ago and was desolate and covered with big rocks, waterfalls and with a couple of lakes. The road started out with nice new tarmac but after 10kms turned to a broken surface covered with loose gravel. As I picked my way along I remember thinking “this is not a good place to fall off” very remote only the odd car and camper van and a few people wild camping.. it went on like this for another 30kms.

Stunning scenery but I was happy to get to the end in one piece and then joined a major road with a 90kph speed limit. A chance to make up time on fast sweeping bends heading for the famous Geirangerfjord. 😎

Soon I came upon the need for another road ferry crossing. This time I rolled up just as they were about to leave; guy waved me forward and squeezed me in between a car and camper van and then we were off. Makes a nice little break from riding👍

Riding along another great road between the mountains I came to a vantage point and stopped for a pic. I was sitting looking at the view when I noticed a couple with car and caravan serving themselves coffee. The man saw me looking and shouted “kaffe?” I was just thinking I could fancy a cup, must have read my mind 😊, so over I went to join them. Late middle aged Norwegian couple from Lillehammer on holiday. Next thing the wife had brought out a big bag of chocolate buns and insisted I have one. Breakfast had gone down by now so I accepted; she then thrust a can of Coke Zero at me, would have been rude to refuse 😊 Spent half an hour with them chatting away, lovely friendly people.

On the road again I arrived at a vantage point high above Gierangerfjord. This is a must do on the tourist list and there were coach loads of them. Spectacular view down to the fjord where you can see the ocean going cruise liners that bring 1000s more tourists. The road down to the fjord was narrow with loads of tight hairpin bends. A nightmare when 2 coaches meet at one of those. Cars, camper vans and coaches all backed up. Just managed to thread my way through on the bike but hard slow going, by now it was hot, high 20’s C.

Stopped down at the fjord to get some water. Two Norwegian bikers parked alongside and we had a nice chat.. everyone speaks English 🙂 They don’t see many English bikes or cars this far North so it seems I’m a bit of a novelty.

Next stop Trollstigen, “the Troll’s staircase” This is a very steep twisty road with tight hairpin bends all the way down a massive mountain side; a bit like the Stelvio in Italy.

The Troll’s Ladder

Running down the mountain is a big waterfall. There is a vantage point at the top where you can see the whole road and take pics, it was infested with tourists and the viewing point was 200 yds away from the road uphill. I decided to give it a miss as it was too hot and I was getting tired by then.. I’ve posted a pic off the web so you can get the idea. I rode all the way down dodging coaches and camper vans on the way and finally reached the bottom and stopped to take pics of the waterfall.

After a while the road joined a major route heading for Alesund, still nearly 100kms to go. It was 28C and I was hot and tired. Thankfully this road passed through several long tunnels, one 8kms long. The temperature in these was 18C so a pleasant respite from the heat and a chance to play silly boy with my noisy exhaust in the tunnel 🤣😎

The final 40kms into Alesund was a drag, but the road was fast, I ignored the 80kms speed limits and blitzed the few cars there were at 120kph and made good progress. With the aim of saving money I had booked an economy room at the hotel which was a few kms out of town. When I checked in the receptionist said my room was in the little building away from the main hotel; turned out to be a “mini motel” Small room but had all I needed so another day ends happy 😎

Tomorrow I ride the amazing Atlantic coast Highway on the way to Trondhiem 😁

Day 7 Tuesday 17th July 18

Alesund to Trondheim via Atlantic Coast Highway 241 miles

Last night stayed up till 11pm just as sun was beginning to set. Best night’s sleep yet  💤 . A nice sunny morning, no one around and no sight of any breakfast; so headed into town and had coffee and croissants while filling up with petrol. Chatted with the guy who served me, told me that all the kids learn English now. The big problem he has is with the Germans and Russians who don’t speak English. 

It will be a long day including 2 ferry crossings ⛴. The first 50 miles was on a good sweeping road, once the cars were disposed of I could settle down to a steady 110kph cruise. Then came the first ferry of the day; I rode past the long line of cars waiting and got on board. 12kms long this crossing and cost about £8.

After the ferry more good road along the coastline and across the small islands; for long stretches I had the road all to myself 😎 Saw a place to stop and pulled in to drink my Coke Zero from yesterday. Up pulled a big transit type van and I noticed Irish plates; said hello and met this very nice couple, about 50, who had given up the rat race and were just touring round where the fancy took them. They had the van all fitted out with a folding bed. They had driven even further than me to get here. Had a nice chat but must move on; it’s 1pm and I’m not even halfway! 😱

Along the road I kept seeing Tesla cars, loads of them. How much  must they cost in this very expensive country? Having said that I believe the government do give some subsidy to those buying electric cars, might explain it. 

Finally I reached the Atlantic Coast Highway and the famous bridge. Took some pics and rode on enjoying the scenery as the road island hopped. Nice ride, bit different to the Cotswolds 😊

Time for lunch and this time a hotdog served by yet another pretty , smiley blonde girl who spoke perfect English.

Off on another fantastically smooth windy road and the 2nd ferry crossing. Got loaded next to two German bikers, turned out to be father and daughter. They had driven up in their camper van with a couple of enduro bikes on the back. Dad liked to talk , his English was ok but daughter kept correcting him looking all embarrassed as we chatted on, she was 18 🤣. Turned out this guy had a Hayabusa back home. 

It was now late in the afternoon and still 100 kms to Trondheim. Once I had cleared the cars from the ferry I had the road to myself. Beautiful smooth open flowing road with sweeping corners, running along the side of a fjord and then forest. Time to wind it up and have some fun 😁😎. This road went on like this for 40miles; fantastic.

I was getting tired now and the temperature was climbing so stopped for a rest at a picnic area. Had to laugh when I saw a poster advertising Suzi Quattro playing locally. Googled and found she is 68, still going strong obviously 👍

Finally arrived in Trondheim; by now it was 30C, very humid and feeling like a storm. I checked in and soon after it rained and cleared the air to make a nice evening.

I had a £12 pint of IPA in the 3 Lions English pub, followed by a curry in the local Indian..home from home, apart from the price!

Had a stroll round the harbour and then to bed.. long day tomorrow, 300 miles up close to the Artic Circle ⭕