Summary of the whole Norway/Sweden trip and time to see the videos I’ve been saving

Sunday 29th July 18

Its raining in the UK today, so time to gather my thoughts on the recent trip to Norway and my unplanned visit to Sweden.  If this is your first blog visit to this Norwegian adventure, you’ve missed the detail but got the overview in this final post 🙂

This was a great Adventure; all went to plan until my encounter with the Norwegian police, but this opened the door to a Swedish adventure which added greatly to the overall experience. I had expected the temperature throughout to be mid teens degs C and all my research said it would definitely rain a lot in Norway..In reality it was actually mid/high 20s most of the time and even 30+ often..and it only rained for half a day. 🙂

In all I covered 4500 miles (7250 Kms) in 16 days away, my longest solo trip yet; My trusty BMW R120oGS took everything I threw at it and performed impeccably.  I enjoyed my own company and the freedom and flexibility that travelling alone enables. I was never lonely; I met and spoke to more people than I ever would have if I’d been riding with a group of friends. The lone biker is never alone on this type of journey; the camaraderie between bikers of all nationalities is outstanding. I met and spoke with French, Belgians, Dutch, German, Danish, Swiss, Norwegian, Swedish, Russian and Finish bikers…oh, an the only other English guy I saw who had also ventured north to Norway 🙂

The trip can be broken into 3 distinct parts.

Part 1: Getting to Norway

There is no easy way to get to Norway these days since the ferry route from UK was cancelled some years ago. One way is to ride nearly 1000 miles of motorway (3 days) to get to the ferry port of Hirtshals, at the top of Denmark, and sail from there to Norway. Motorway riding on a motorbike is boring and your body feels every ache and pain as there’s nothing to take your mind off it; frequent coffee stops is the answer.

Would I recommend it? Well, its a small price to pay relatively as it makes possible the opportunity to visit far away lands without spending a month on the road getting there!

Part 2 Norway and Sweden

The overnight ferry from Hirtshals to Bergen was a pleasant break after the motorway miles and my mini deluxe cabin was excellent, even had a TV.

The big ferry boat sailed very close to the coast threading its way through the many islands on the entry to the port of Bergen. https://youtu.be/ruXNVKC5nmo

Bergen is a busy town with lots of tourists this time of year..a picturesque place with lovely fresh fish on hand. Norway is an expensive place with beer costing the equivalent of £10-£12, and it gets more expensive further North as they have you as a captive audience!!!

The next day I set off to ride north to the small town of Hjelle. It was necessary to keep stopping to admire the scenery…check out these short videos https://youtu.be/s-B02mttTbk   https://youtu.be/ujihVQcAUjA

The hotel in Hjelle was in a beautiful setting on the shores of a lake surrounded by mountains, some French and Germany bikers also staying there.

On to Alesund the next morning, via the most stunning valley  https://youtu.be/gR90bIM6OKk  and remote road/track.

Then Gerringerfjord  https://youtu.be/vejZjX7Jy-c  and the “Trolls Staircase”…and more ferries across the fjords

The Troll’s Staircase waterfall https://youtu.be/fAnpr_DGiF8

And then onto Trondheim via The Atlantic Ocean Road..one of the most spectacular roads anywhere in the World.

I ride over the bridge on a nice sunny day  https://youtu.be/zSQ1d-p3XaM

Now try it on a rough day!!!

https://youtu.be/KiLxb2G-t8c

After a night in Trondheim it was time to push on northwards and enter North Norway or Norge Nord and on to the town of Mo I Rana.

Moving further north the houses and towns became fewer and further between, for long stretches I would have the road completely to myself. Good surface, sweeping corners and undulating..biking heaven. 🙂 It was surprising hot this far north, at one point it reached 33C. As I pulled into Mo I Rana the wind had got up and it looked like a major storm was brewing.

It rained over night and was still raining in the morning, as I set off the temperature had fallen to 16C. The heavens opened and it rained for 30mins or so, but I could see blue sky up ahead 🙂 The terrain was now getting rugged, forests replaced by snow capped mountains and barren landscape. I pulled into the Artic Circle Centre which is situated on the E6 road in the Saltfjellet mountains in the county of Nordland.

As I pushed on further north the road was straight and empty

Not another car in sight, on a straight road, not over taking and not riding dangerously..but going faster than the ridiculously low 70kph speed limit..that is 43 miles per hour…out jumps this POLICEMAN and tells me I was doing 110kph (68 mph) which is so much above the limit I am banned immediately from driving in Norway!

After 30 mins of lecturing and interviews I was told I could go, but must leave Norway and ride back through Sweden. So I was not going to make it to my next planned stop, the Lofoten Islands, and a dramatic change of plan was needed. I immediately got on the Internet and cancelled all the remaining hotels I had booked in Norway and the ferry back to Denmark..thankfully in time to not incur cancellation charges.

So I reprogrammed the Sat Nav for Sweden and set off up into the mountains..after 20kms I was crossing the Swedish border…goodbye Norway, hello Sweden 🙂

It started to rain so I pushed on until I came to a remote petrol station. I stopped to fill up and figure out a new route plan. There was another biker sheltering from the rain; he came over and asked where I was going. I said that I didn’t know where as I had just been thrown out of Norway for speeding…he said “well so have I, do you want a coffee and we can chat”. His name was Claus, he was Danish and also rode a GS.

 

Claus and I immediately bonded, due to the situation we found ourselves in. He was well travelled on his bike and we swapped stories of our previous trips. We discussed where to go from here, we both needed to ride south…its over 1000 miles from where we are to the bottom of Sweden!! His plan was to branch off east several hundred kms further on and then take the motorway to Denmark via Stockholm. I was not in such a hurry as I had 2 days extra now to fill. We decided to ride south together until it was time to split up. Claus had a tent, I did not and had no idea where I might spend that night…houses are few and far between this far north, let alone towns with hotels, but there are camping sites where you can rent a little hut!!

So we set off on the road through dense forests, past beautiful lakes and dodged Reindeer wandering in the road, no other cars in sight..keeping close to the speed limit, which had risen to 100kph (62mph) 🙂

We rode for a few hundred kms and it was soon 7:30pm..we entered a town with a few houses and I pulled over to suggest it was time for food. In the pizza place I asked if there was a hotel in town; yes they had one. We checked and they had a rooms available. Claus and I decided to share the cost of a twin room which worked out at a very reasonable £45 each. 🙂 We chatted for hours that night; very nice guy, well travelled and a history fan.

The next day we rode until it was time to split. Thanks Claus for your company, it was great meeting you and we will keep in touch.

I rode 600kms that day until it was 9pm at night and came upon a large town, Mora. Thankfully the last hotel I tried had a room available 🙂

From Mora I decided to carry on south to Malmo and then across Denmark to Germany and on via Netherlands to Calais and home.. still 1500 miles to go.

The road took me through beautiful Swedish forests and lakes and the temptation to stop was all too often. Check out this beautiful lakeside lunch stop video https://youtu.be/GnHSgwSfqI0  I stayed that night in a town called Jonkoping on another large lake.

As the miles passed the road became dual carriageway and Malmo approached..1050 miles in total ridden through Sweden since my entry point up in the north of the country.

Part 3. Malmo Sweden to home in UK

From here it was motorway all the way; over “The Bridge” to Copenhagen and on into Germany.

Stayed that night in Flensburg and enjoyed normal priced beer for the first time in 10 days. 🙂

Penultimate night spent in Gronigen, Netherlands and then on to Amsterdam: I love The Netherlands..if you want the details checkback on the posts for these days.

And then it was finally the final 400 mile motorway slog from Amsterdam including Eurotunnel and M25…another adventure finished…probably the best ever. 🙂

Norway is a beautiful country, but very expensive. Definitely worth a visit if you have the time and can spend a minimum 7-10days there, plus the travel time to get there, It can be done on a budget if you are into camping; camp sites everywhere. The speed limits are very low and if you don’t wish to take the risk of getting caught stick to them; even in the remotest areas the police are out to get you! Take your own booze with you, but don’t drink it if you have any plans to drive; its zero alcohol limit!!

Sweden is beautiful in the north and central areas, forests and lakes..very few people great if you want to get away from it all, and less expensive that Norway.  I’d definitely go back.

Everyone speaks English in all the countries I have visited on this trip. The friendship and generosity of strangers when travelling alone has been a high point and bikers are bikers all over.

Thanks for reading my ramblings….Stay tuned for my next Adventure in 4 wks time…Its Spain and The Pyrenese 🙂